What does happiness smell like? For some, it’s the scent of hazelnut praline, buttery popcorn, strong cappuccino, bittersweet chocolate truffles, sticky cinnamon buns, smoky Islay whiskey, and the caramel oozing from a melt-in-the-middle chocolate pudding… These people are the gourmand lovers, and I am an unashamed member of the club.
Gourmand scents (ones with distinctive “edible” notes) have stormed the fragrance world in recent years, much to the chagrin of many who find them cloying and overbearing. But why is it that they have become so popular? As a self-confessed bon vivant, I am sure I know the answer. Nothing takes us back to the innocent, carefree existence of our childhood like the sweet smell of comfort foods and confections. However, there is certainly also a very adult sexiness that attracts us to these fragrances too. The connection between food and sex is undeniable, if you don’t believe me, just watch that infamous scene from the movie 9 ½ Weeks. According to Freud’s theories of psychosexual development, the mouth was our first erogenous zone so it can be said that gourmand scents not only prey on our happy childhood memories but also shamelessly capitalize on our sexual oral fixation (everyone knows that the way to someone’s “heart” is through their stomach). Another important factor to take into consideration is that our sense of smell is intricately connected to our sense of taste as both senses use the same types of chemo-receptors, just think of how bland food tastes when your nose is blocked. This means that when we smell these gorgeous scents, it’s almost as satisfying as actually eating them.
One of the first scents that really launched this modern family was Thierry Mugler’s Angel (1992). Today you would be hard pressed to find a more divisive scent, with people either loving it or hating it. However, there is no denying that it was truly ground-breaking, with its innovative use of gourmand notes like caramel and praline. There was nothing like it before, and it opened the door for the plethora of gourmand scents we have on offer today. Love it or hate it, Olivier Cresp & Yves de Chirin created an icon that deserves respect, which it is all too often not given. In fact, there seems to be a certain level of snobbery which surrounds the gourmand olfactory genre. Some traditionalists deride it for not being a “real” olfactory group, and the fact that scents like vanilla, candy floss, chocolate, and caramel are pleasing to even the youngest in society, leads some to discount gourmand scents as being unsophisticated and childish. In my opinion, this is not the case, I believe that gourmand scents can be as well constructed, balanced and beautifully nuanced as any other scent. There are many gorgeous gourmand scents out there and here are my pics of some of the best.
| Men |
Women |
| L’Instant pour Homme Eau Extreme by Guerlain
Notes: Citruses, star anise, elemi, jasmine, neroli, tea, sandalwood, patchouli, cedar, cacao & hibiscus |
Virgin Island Water by Creed (unisex)
Notes: Lime, coconut, Sicilian mandarin, white bergamot, ginger, Indian jasmine, hibiscus, ylang-ylang, musk, sugar cane & white rum |
| New Haarlem by Bond No. 9 (unisex)
Notes: Lavender, bergamot, green leaves, coffee, cedar, amber, vanilla, tonka bean & Patchouli |
Acqua e Zucchero by Profumum Roma (unisex)
Notes: Orange Blossom, forest fruits & vanilla |
| Au Masculin by Lolita Lempicka
Notes: Violet, ivy, basil, anise, licorice, wormwood, sandalwood, tonka bean, rum, almond, vanilla, vetiver, cedar, praline & labdanum |
Back to Black by Killian (unisex)
Notes: Bergamot, saffron, nutmeg, cardamom, coriander, raspberry, chamomile, olibanum, honey, Virginia cedar, oak, patchouli, almond, tobacco, labdanum, vanilla, geranium, gingerbread, benzoin, tonka bean, amber & cherry |
| Rochas Man by Rochas
Notes: Lavender, bergamot, jasmine, Virginia cedar, lily-of-the-valley, raspberry, coffee, sandalwood, patchouli, amber & vanilla |
Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin by Guerlain
Note: Spices, vanilla, dark chocolate, rum, cacao, pepper & rose |
| Uomo By Salvatore Ferragamo
Notes: Black pepper, cardamom, bergamot, tiramisu, orange blossom, ambroxan, cashmere wood, sandalwood & tonka bean |
Hypnotic Poison by Christian Dior
Notes: Apricot, plum, coconut, tuberose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, rose, Brazilian rosewood, caraway, sandalwood, almond, vanilla, musk
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The Scent Society 
I must admit that I may be one of those snobs you mention….but not because I have a self-righteous or traditional point of view, rather it is because I have a bad case of A.D.D. Over stimulation can cause me to lose my rag in a big way. Overbearing, and persistent fragrances are not my favourite. And unfortunately the gourmands are usually heavy and tend to have lasting power (all positives for a large portion of the the human population but problematic for us overly sensitive kind). I also have to confess that, because I have not had the ambition to try out this genre of perfume, I am quite ignorant of the gourmands you have selected for your post (apart from “L’instant” and “Hypnotic Poison”, and I love them both). However, looking at your selection, I feel a little short changed by my physiological debility and prejudiced attitude. On paper they seem fantastic and I am actually quite excited to give all of them a try. Where can i get my hands on Acqua e Zucchero by Profumum Roma …looks very interesting!
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